On Not Meeting Demelza in Poldark Country

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by Arundhati Basu

No, not even Ross. Rather reality crept in upon me as I took nimble steps down to ruins of tin mines perched upon the rugged cliffs of the Cornish landscape, the inky-turquoise waters of the Celtic Sea crashed dashed against granite rocks and frothed below a strong afternoon sun. Paths ribboned around the cliffs, some muddy and slithery enough to make me take a step back, and, hold the husband back too. “If you are going, leave the car keys behind,” I said into the quiet of the noon. Unfeeling? Tough luck. You have got to figure out ways of dealing with stubbornness.

So you swoon over Ross Poldark, that well-toned torso in the buff, the scarred cheek beneath the tricorn hat and the smouldering good looks, but Winston Graham’s world does not even begin to touch upon the dangers which tin miners faced every day of their lives when they went about work. You see, what I have shown photographs of, above and below, are remnants of engine houses. The miners used to travel down shafts and go into a labyrinth of subterranean tunnels that ran below the sea for miles. Ponies were also sent down those shafts to work for months below in those tunnels. As they worked on extracting metal from the seams along the coastline, the sea pounded away above their heads.

There were dreadful accidents. Men used to work within the shafts, perched upon ledges as they worked man-worked engines to deliver their fellow workers to the tunnels. When an iron cap or bolt did not work right, entire pillars of men were mangled and crushed to death. Certainly not cheery, but the realities of life and how they have changed with time. You wonder if people still lead such lives, fraught with danger, in a bid to garner their daily pieces of bread.

We spent hours charting paths up and down the cliffs, exploring the disused tin engine houses and remnants of labyrinthine structures where arsenic was solidified and cooled into crystals. Yet we were in the midst of our explorations beneath a chirpy sun and blue skies – just close your eyes and lend your imagination to the same landscape under stormy skies and a gale-swept turbulent sea. That is the terribly truth of tin mining which is now conserved in these UNESCO World Heritage Sites. There were once 3,000 tin mines strewn around the coast.

I would say give it a go. It is the real story behind Poldark’s world.

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We walked down a narrow path to the bluff. From that big boulder jutting out above the bluff is a view of Botallack mines (it has been featured in Poldark). On both sides of the path are steep falls into the rocks below. It is a little alarming as you see that path from above the bluff, but as you scramble down, you realise that the trail is not as fatal as it looks.
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Before we climb up the cliffs and go down to the Botallack tin engine houses.
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Tall and Taller.
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Making our way down to the engine houses of Botallack. In the old days they used to have ladders that would take the miners to the engine house at the very bottom of the cliffs. We had no way of going down there. 
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Dramatic views around the Botallack ruins.
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Paths that suddenly taper off, hugging cliffs and snaking around them.
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Like that…
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Levant mines
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Fragrant gorse and mine remnants sticking out into the firmament.
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The tin miners who worked at Levant in the 19th century.
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Botallack in tatters
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Pendeen Lighthouse that tin miners must have seen as they went about their rigours.
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Towanroath Engine House in St. Agnes. Adi tripped down the slopes off the charted paths, and I had to follow, till I stopped short in dismay. Running down ’em slopes carpeted with heather and prickly bushes is not a plum idea. Period.
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The 19th century Towanroath Engine House is perched right above the Celtic Sea.
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Ponies around Land’s End
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Conversations with curious listeners
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Disused tin mines at Porkellis.
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The Celtic Sea beneath a mellow sun as it starts its journey into the horizon after an full day of shining strong above us.

Which Tin Mines to Explore: Head to the tin mines of Botallack, Levant and Geevor around Land’s End and the ones along the stretch of St. Agnes. Poldark Mine is the only one that takes you underground but the mine was re-dubbing taking advantage of the novels and the telly series. Botallack is the most dramatic of the lot.

Where to Stay: Book former lighthouse keepers’ cottages at Pendeen Lighthouse through Rural Retreats (www.ruralretreats.co.uk).

What to Do: Long rambles around the tin mines. The thing to remember is this: Do not go tumbling into the granite rocks below. Some paths are dangerous. We took some of them so I would not say wuss out completely. But do take a call and keep a check upon those adventurous genes in places where you do not feel quite so sure of making it back. You also have to keep this in mind that in this part of mining country, you do not have to make an effort. Drama will come your way.

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Arundhati Basu

The great affair in my life is to travel. I count myself immensely fortunate that my partner shares this passion. We are a team that likes to spend time planning and plotting out places to go. Destination check, flights check, accommodation check, cheesy grins check. Off we go.

73 thoughts on “On Not Meeting Demelza in Poldark Country”

    1. It is wise to go slow. Adi was ambitious. He kept dragging me down those bloody heather covered slopes which had the hairs standing at my nape in alarm. I am an adventure seeker but running down spiky slopes is Not my idea of fun. Also some paths were so full of crumbly old rocks that I almost cried my way down as I had visions of sliding all the way down inside of simply walking down. But thank you, Angela. Do you watch Poldark?

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      1. That sounds like enough thrilling adventures for one day XD
        And no, I don’t watch Poldark, I hadn’t actually heard of it till you mentioned it in the post. I should go look more into it 🙂

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    1. I have shot a video of it where he disappears around a rock and then he hears those words, pops right back and says, “Huh, what about the husband?” Thank you Miriam, it was just so dramatic that it took my breath away x

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  5. Luscious landscape photos! The ruins were stark and beautiful in their decay. I’ve never seen Poldark but we do get it on PBS. I’m going to try and catch it on one of the streaming channels. Interesting history about the tin miners. Such a hard life! A number of tin miners from Cornwall, England immigrated to Grass Valley, California to work in the gold mines because it required the same skills for deep tin mining. By the way, stubbornness is a trait shared by a lot of husbands my married friends also agree! 🙂

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    1. Oh yes, I was going to write about them but then I realised it was going to be a thesis! Cousin Jacks they were referred to as. I am assuming from the last comment that this is Neek 😉 You might like Poldark. It is engaging x

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      1. Yes it’s Neek. I get a little carried away when posts are about history. Yours are always fascinating! Cousin Jacks? I will google that as I’ve never heard of that name. Anyways, off to try and find Poldark. Have a great day!

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      2. Thank you Neek, we did have a lovely day, so your wishes worked 🙂 I am a history buff too, a bit too crazy about it. What would we be without some perspective from the past, right? Ross Poldark’s brooding beauty might get you 😉

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      1. If you have seen the new one, the original will seem pretty primitive. It was in the early 70s and production values aren’t up to today’s standards. 🙂

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  12. Tin mining sounds like a job not for the faint of heart. To be working the day away in tunnels beneath the ocean. The rest of the coast is very pretty though, especially on such a sunny day as when you went there.

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    1. You got it. We were merely making our way down to explore them and these men made their way down almost every single day and even beyond to make their living. My heart went out to those poor souls and their families. Even the donkeys who would have been miserable for months beneath the sea in those tunnels. But yes, not to sound all morose, the coast is stunning. It makes you whoop.

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    1. Thank you milady, I did make it back home safe with more sun and loveliness. Shall put up a post. I have come back home a deep hazelnut brown from all the walking under the strong Cornish sun but boy it feels good 😉 xx

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    1. Hello Daniel and Niki, it seems you have been to Cornwall, maybe a few times too? Because who can go there just once 😉 Thank you for the lovely comment and the weather was fantastic. We have come back home a deep hazelnut brown and that speaks volumes about the perfect weather 🙂

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  17. Nimble steps are what I’d recommend for these pathways. Glad you made your way safely. It looks beautiful and great weather, too! 🙂 Thanks for the history lesson as well.

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  19. What incredible scenery and interesting history. All your photos are amazing but I particularly like the ones showing the dramatic path and cliffs (I’d be so into exploring this area!) Looks like you need to have to have your wits about you on those paths. I have to admit, I needed to look up Ross Poldark. Thanks for the introduction.

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    1. Your heart might go a little bump bump 🙂 I sense that you have a penchant for exploring dramatic landscapes and taking on challenges. Botallack awaits you. My precious husband made me run down some, after which I had to get on my bums and crawl down one of those heather covered slopes. He had a hearty laugh and recorded all of it on his phone. Imagine that. Hmph.

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  20. Maybe you didn’t see Demelza or Ross because it was too (Pol)dark! Oh my, such bad jokes. I would love to have the chance to explore such sights and the scary paths and mines. It was a harsh reality back then, I think the show does a great job in showing how hard life was for those who worked and depended on those mines to get their piece of bread! I love your articles, dear. They are always informative and fun and interesting. xx

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    1. Tee hee. It was dark and even darker where I did not tread (into the subterranean tunnels 😉 Maybe some day you will. Thank you Cheila 🙂 I love the show too but I do think there is a bit of glossing over reality here and there though it does a fantastic job of introducing readers/viewers to the entire concept of tin mining and the boom and bust phases that it went through xx

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  25. Beautifulpost and so well written, Dippy Dotty. hanks for the smiles. 🙂
    That’s one to save for us, I’d love to stay at the Pendeen Lighthouse one day.
    Best regards,
    The Fab Four of Cley

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      1. I asked Siri and Selma, they know such things. Of course, they said, there is one called the Thrilling Ghost, but he is a ghost apprentice still.
        Happy weekend
        The Fab Four of Cley

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