Vignettes of Málaga

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by Arundhati Basu

A whirligig of architectural styles. Baroque, Rococo, Renaissance and Neo-Mudejar schools of design coming together under one umbrella and as you gape at them, the many Christian temples that fall on your way as you saunter through the alleys of the city, you realise that these are not mere names to forget in a jiffy. These are the artistic movements that had Europe in its clutches at the time. They permeated almost all aspects of life.

La Manquita, the One-Armed Lady, as the gigantic cathedral is known among the malagueños. You stand beneath it gaping for some time at the lofty stature of the tower that shoots up, up into the blue sky above, but there is that south tower that is missing. A long time ago it seems the parish used its funds to help the American independence efforts. The cathedral remained unfinished but it helped an entire nation get on its feet. A cause as worthy as any.

Frequent stops in cafes for a bite to eat and drink because that heat saps the strength out of you. The solitary woman sitting in a corner of a cafe and sketching away. Of course you wanted to strike up a conversation but she looked so comfortable in her own little world that you let her be. Sometimes there is solace to be found in silent camaraderie, even with strangers.

The shoppers in various departmental stores, the random teteria decorated with those entrancing, intricate jaalis and people nursing glasses of chilled wines and beers on the sidewalks. You find yourself wandering aimlessly through the many alleys, a church at every corner, a man with the taqiyah on his head selling peanuts, the quiet courtyard with its traditional wooden beams and solid doors, the lanes where sheltered from the intense heat a man with long locks strums the guitar.

The old Roman amphitheatre above which stand guard the rambling walls of the Alcazaba of the moors with its rows of orange trees and clumps of flamboyant Bougainvillea growing inside, a hint at the beauty that must have flourished inside when the moors ruled over the land, a view of the sea from the walls because it was built as a defence against pirates during the day, the bullring in the distance and the towers of concrete painted up in the Mediterranean colour palette.

A wonderful jumble of impressions guaranteed to make you dizzy.

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Iglesia de San Juan Bautista

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Iglesia de los Santos Mártires (Church of the Holy Martyrs) is dedicated to Ciriaco and Paula. Christian saints who were stoned to death by Roman emperors who wanted them to bow their heads to the Roman deities.

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The Roman amphitheatre above which looms the Alcazaba
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Inside the Alcazaba
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An archway in the Alcazaba
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View of the city’s town hall and the sea beyond from the Alcazaba

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La Manquita
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Episcopal Palace
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The cathedral

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Arundhati Basu

The great affair in my life is to travel. I count myself immensely fortunate that my partner shares this passion. We are a team that likes to spend time planning and plotting out places to go. Destination check, flights check, accommodation check, cheesy grins check. Off we go.

78 thoughts on “Vignettes of Málaga”

  5. This post came as a sweet desert for an architect’s dinner (ahem, dinner time here). Thanks for bringing me to parts of Malaga yet unknown to me (an amphitheater, really?). We often say that we know more of what’s far away than what we have at home and it’s true – next time I visit I won’t overlook this beautiful city as if I knew every corner of it, because I don’t. Did you visit in spring? people are overdressed from what I saw in your pictures.

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    1. It was towards the end of February, Virginia. I do not know how those people were wearing so many layers given how hot it was. I would not venture near the word ‘warm’ which is blessedly mellow. My post as dessert! I am chuffed.
      An amphitheatre too – the various cultures coming together in one city. I never cease to be amazed by human wonders too 🙂 xx

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  11. Stunning, stunning, stunning pictures!! The vibrant colours, the blends of architecture, the man made and the natural so perfectly captures. And your words – *whirligig* is a most underused word used sighingly perfectly chez toi. I loved this post. Now I shall close my eyes and dream …. xx

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      1. Oh I’m delighted to give you a new expression. The Malaga dreams were just the thing today – very wet and the temp has dropped from 95 to 61F overnight!!!! Xx

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      2. Autumn is almost in the air here it seems and I cannot tell you delighted I am. The wet and cool weather calls for hot soup, baguette and butter? Now thinking of that is making me feel hungry even though I have just chowed down a hefty dinner. xx

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  18. Loved seeing the varied styles of architecture. The streets are so pristine! I didn’t see any signs of littering. Again, beautiful photographs and wonderfully informative blogpost. – Neek

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  20. Looks lovely! I’m disappointed we didn’t get to explore more of Malaga when we were in the area. We only flew out of the airport after our road trip through Southern Spain. Thanks for sharing 🙂

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    1. Thank you Louise. There is so much to see in the southern part of Spain that I can imagine missing out on something or the other. But the great thing is that Malaga is right there and you can always plan another trip 🙂 x

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      2. That sounds fun! I hope you get to take part in it too. We are off to Vermont …seeing if we can fit in a hike or two. Our first American road trip after moving, so I am chuffed. xx

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  22. Wonderful pictures! Andalucia is still on my bucket list, and I get even more impatient when I see these colorful allies. Love areas with such rich history and mixture of different cultures. So envious! 😀

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  24. I love the contrast between the cathedral and the zingy yellow of the Episcopal Palace. I have never been to Malaga and i will admit, it was not on my list of places to go but then neither was Seville and it was my favourite place I’ve ever visited. I think another trip to Spain is needed! I hear Salamanca is stunning. I love you way with words as ever lovely and your photos are divine. xxx

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  25. […] is a route through the Alcazaba that takes you to the castle. I could not figure it out and naturally I took the longer trail […]

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  29. I love that – silent camaraderie. That feeling I get when out traveling and admiring a landscape, a painting or anything. And then you looked at the stranger beside you and shared a smile or a nod, and without saying a single word, you know you understand what each one is saying.
    – Amor

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