Colours of the Night in Florence

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by Arundhati Basu

Now wait, did you think I was done with Florence? You do know my proclivity for banging on about one place till I have flayed it to its core, right? Because the mind finds itself wedged between the atmospheric alleys of an old city, it refuses to let go of memories acquired under the half-light of twilight.

The old towns of Europe, they come alive under the warm yellow lighting ensconced within the vintage street lamps as you trod upon uneven cobblestones coating those old roads. You walk down narrow alleys charmed by everything you set your eyes upon because is it not all a living fairy tale? A pastel pink leather bag bagged within the leather shops where the smell of animal skin is pungent and thwacks the olfactory senses, looking into bookshops where tattered tomes line shelves in a language you sadly have no knowledge of except for the bits and bobs of local phrases you spritz your conversations with, let dusk turn frigid. Beat the sting of the evening air by pottering around the Christmas market that sprawls itself in front of the Gothic basilica. The Basilica of Santa Croce.

Nibble on potato cutlets smeared with hot melted cheese, slices of smoky speck ham, chomp on churros doused in chocolate sauce and then some piping hot bratwurst…take a breath from eating…listen to the man singing out his soul with a rendition of Cohen’s Hallelujah and then stare at colourful rows of candied fruit and precious old porcelain tea cups and dishes. If only you had space enough to lug them back home.

Gawking at the tall Christmas trees peppering the piazza around the colossal personality of the Duomo, a shy Cocker Spaniel pup hiding behind her master in his tweed coat and flat cap, the cathedral, campanile and baptistery lit up subtly because such extreme beauty of those reliefs carved out from coloured stones should shine only under nebulous lighting.

That is how we let it come to a grand end, in the shadow of the Duomo, you and I, humans humbled by the sheer superbness of it. Before we sit on the train that whisks us back to Rome.

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Arundhati Basu

The great affair in my life is to travel. I count myself immensely fortunate that my partner shares this passion. We are a team that likes to spend time planning and plotting out places to go. Destination check, flights check, accommodation check, cheesy grins check. Off we go.

82 thoughts on “Colours of the Night in Florence”

  3. It’s just incredibly beautiful. The second photo towards the bottom of this post made my mouth drop open. The façade is dominating the scene as it must do in real life, and the detail that went into the design of it makes my heart swoon. I love how a scene changes at night. I also really like the blurred image of the bike rider moving into the scene.
    I sure hope that you’re taking pictures of yourself as well and just not sharing them here!

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    1. Thank you, dearest Lyz. The sheer scale of the work on the buildings in the piazza send shivers of delight up the spine. Imagine yourself standing in front of it…humans are capable of such incredible beauty. One of those moments when I heartily admire the human species.
      Night walks in Europe are enchanting, Lyz. I cannot get enough of them. I do not have enough photos of me but just the one odd photo is enough to do the job 🙂 xx

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  5. Your photos brought me back to Florence! Especially the photo of the bookstore 🙂 I recall the time when I was in a Florentine bookstore. Although I could read none of those books, the delicate letters, the nostalgic smell of old papers and the intricate book covers left a strong impression on me. The Florentine stationery stores are no less impressive.

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    1. Thank you! This was a beautiful old bookstore (not the one in the photos though). You know how addictive bookstores are… and the older the books, the better to stare at them greedily. Oh and yes, the smell of old paper drives me crazy. The stationery stores and those beautiful journals, aah.

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  7. Oh those pictures … I can smell the ham, I’m dribbling rather less than aesthetically over the churros and the dog melts me with his soulful eyes. But the Duomo – ah, me such dramatic heaven. You are so right that the yellow light does something almost illegally magical in European cities and towns – one is simply captivated to the point of mesmerised and the wide-eyed rubbernecking is rewarded freely. I am hoping to hop to Florence in February/March you mind me that this should be a promise not a hope xx

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    1. Ah how she will woo you! The promise of it should drive you into delirium. Do go for the oldest gelateria there where apart from the gelatos, the grilled veggies make me swoon.
      Rubbernecking is my trade when in Europe. How else to be? 😉
      The churros and ham are worth the dribbling. You do not have to be aesthetic about it at all. It is me at the other end here. The Spaniel was the quintessential ‘my coy beauty’. I will wait to hear about your rambles in Firenze then. xx

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      1. As with everything else in my life ( ?) it is in the planning. I am pretty certain though and I promise I will do better than I did in Barcelona where I entirely forgot I was carrying my camera and ended up only taking very few pictures. By the way, this piece was seriously well written too …. full of sparkly gems of Dottydom xx

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      2. Tee hee, you are just partial :-* A stream of consciousness ramble that just tells you that I am always at my dotty best.
        The planning thrills me to bits because you know that there is that wonderful possibility of what lies ahead. If you took less pictures than you intended, you must have thoroughly been engrossed in the moment. xx

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      3. I was not there for 24 hours and was seeing my daughter for the first time since Christmas. That and copious cava and tapas were the main culprits ? xx

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      7. When my girls were young this was my favourite chant for skipping games:

        Cinderella, dressed in yella went upstairs to kiss a fella
        On the way her girdle busted
        How many people were disgusted?
        1,2,3 (carry on til they make a mistake)

        This is the sort of thing that has consistent appeal in world of me. That and pâtisserie … I’m a lost cause xx

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      8. I love lost causes
        Bring them forth in big doses
        For we shall hide the long noses.

        Your daughters had a solid chant to grow up with! Are they spreading the word? xx

        P.S.: I stand shoulder to shoulder with you on confectionery as well.

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      9. If they aren’t they are in trouble! I am glad to have a sister in arms on the pastry/confectionary/bakery platform … there is none more important, n’est-ce pas? Xxx

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  9. Fabulous. A tumbling stream of impressions and memories. The thought of potato cutlets got me dribbling. The little cocker spaniel melted my heart. So pretty. And the Duomo – majestic. What a city!

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  10. Loving the sassy Santa! As for the food, you had me at potato cutlets 😉 Wow, the chocolate covered churros look absolutely decadent and the bratwurst is well – just give me some mustard and sassy Santa will have to move over. Great post! – Neek

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  12. Between my travels in March/April and when I start uni in the autumn I have a few months of spare time, and after this post and all of your other ones I am seriously thinking about squeezing in a trip to Italy! I mean, the architecture and the atmosphere your photos convey are enough to draw anyone in. And that pup is almost too adorable, any trip is better when there is a dog involved :’) Xx

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    1. You lucky girl, that is a neat little break. Go for it for everything about Italy is a winner. You will be spoilt for choice. If I can help with any information, let me know.
      We are dog stalkers 😉 xx

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  14. Great and beautiful city Florence, there is not only duomo and architecture and sculptures to like there are also great ice cream 😀 Ice cream are like a blessing during hot summer days in Florence 🙂

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    1. I can quite imagine how blissful roaming in Trapani would have been. A part of Italy I want to see someday. It is like Florence has two personalities – her night avataar oozes just oodles of charm. xx

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  24. I have realised I can never get tired of looking at pictures of Duomo or hearing stories about Florence. I have too much love in my heart for this city which came alive in the nights, as you have rightly highlighted and captured in your pictures. 3 nights I had and still was sad to leave. Xx

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    1. Right ho 🙂 Three nights is time enough to revel in the beauty of the city and have time to wander around the Tuscan countryside too. Thank you Anushree, it is difficult to stop clicking in the face of such intense charm. xx

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  27. […] marks the end of my series on Rome that was punctuated by that on Florence and my mind is quite ready to exit Italy (do I hear hurrahs at this point?) and enter India where […]

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  28. I’m so glad I popped by via Theresa Barker’s lovely blog to inhale your beautiful words & gorgeous images…you brought back some beautiful memories of Europe although I have yet to see Florence, thank you for sharing your fairy-tale night with us!

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  31. Beautiful pictures and writing as always! What a wonderful trip you are having to kick off the new year (Knocking on the wood..tap tap!) Your descriptions paint such vivid pictures in our minds’ eye that it is always exciting and heart-warming to join in your adventures through your blog. Have loads of fun, food and good times with near and dear ones in India before you set off for home! xx

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