Summer has come in with a show of jazz hands. The days are hot, and the nights so lovely and soft, filled with breezes of pure delight and fireflies that twinkle and dim like their very lives depend upon it. The gentle warmth in the air has as if unlocked the ridiculously sweet fragrance of the Sweetgum trees in the park. Every night as I walk through the maze of tall trees, a strong scent cocoons the senses in the quiet of the night. A skunk skulks around in the dark and I look warily at its quivering fan of a tail. Would not do to spoil the peace of the night.
Which reminds me of the other evening when a friend accompanied me on my nightly walks. She shrieked hard at the sight of a skunk. I do not know who was more startled – the skunk or I.
Summer is the time to potter around and we have been doing so on weekends — seeking the solitude of the small towns that flank the mighty Delaware. The river that the Lenape Indians called Lenapewihittuk. It means rapid river of the Lenapes. But I have found it to be a remarkably serene river for the most part. To pick your way slowly along the Delaware is to pave the way for bluish green hills and rolling farmlands (how they make me sick for the British countryside) which land you in the middle of surprisingly photogenic towns nesting along the river. Perhaps you remember Lambertville (there’s a separate photo op on it here) and New Hope. They are of the Delaware river town tribe that set us off on this trail.
Imagine here, towns with historic vibes, all part of the Lenape belt where the Algonquin speaking Native Americans lived. That is till colonisation took place and the settlers came in, hopping around, renaming places and rivers. Delaware, for instance, was named after a British politician, Baron De La Warr. Along with some heritage, throw in generous dollops of old architecture, art galleries, antique centres, decor boutiques, bookshops, and friendly folk — and you know it’s gonna be something special.
It turns out that the Raritan River, which is connected to the Delaware River via a canal, has its share of pretty townships. Like Clinton, a town in Hunterdon County in New Jersey, where we ended up in our quest for placid weekend rambles.
The main protagonist of Clinton is a red mill. The rest of the town is cobbled together with old houses built in ornate architectural styles. Plenty of balusters, gables, pilasters and porches there. During the 1800s, travelling theater companies would make stops in Clinton because of its banging music hall. But all footsteps now lead to a couple of old mills there that straddle the South Branch of the Raritan River. I have a weak spot for barns and mills. The older, the better (but of course).
Under the sufficient glare of a June sun, we trod across the rusted grid of the truss bridge. On one side of it stood two picture-perfect mills, facing each other across the smooth spill of a man-made waterfall. A small flock of geese drifted around the waters and everything around was somnolent in the heat, like a picture playing out in slow motion. On the other side of the bridge, we watched an angler, submerged in knee-deep water, cast a fly rod into the mossy green waters. I wonder if he struck lucky. Meanwhile, people sat on garden chairs of some café that lined the pavement along the river – and I would like to think that they took cooling chugs of heady drinks to stave off the heat shimmering around us.
Now the Red Mill is the kind of place you walk into and get lost for the better part of an hour. The men behind its conservation must have put in enough thought to engage the visitor, for it is mighty easy to induce a snooze fest with so many details. It is when you recreate the lives and stories of people who worked and lived around the mill that it can spark off the imagination. The mind then latches onto the recreation of a lifestyle that was the only one the people of the age knew and lived. Several universes away from this modern world of ours where man has contrived to make life as divested of effort as possible.
A one-house schoolroom with its coal burner, small wooden chairs and slate-boards, the blacksmith’s quarters, the quarries where Irish immigrants must have slaved away to earn their daily bread, corn cribs and herb gardens, … life would have been tough and yet rewarding for the settlers who made a living off their surroundings. Just for those moments when I was peering into the schoolroom, sheds, quarries and log cabins, I was whisked back in time to the Smoky Mountains where the legacies of the settlers are everywhere, even in the mid of dense forests. Come with me into Clinton and have a peek?
The great affair in my life is to travel. I count myself immensely fortunate that my partner shares this passion. We are a team that likes to spend time planning and plotting out places to go. Destination check, flights check, accommodation check, cheesy grins check. Off we go.
View all posts by Arundhati Basu
49 thoughts on “On the Trail of Bonny River Towns”
The Red Mill is such a beautifully preserved place. I loved The Bunker Hill school and the photo of the children who had attended long ago – how solemn they look! What a great visit to such a historic place. Thanks for sharing it and also your encounter with a skunk 😉 Neek
Yes, we are despite having another aftershock early this morning from the Ridgecrest quake. We are hoping things get better for the residents in that area. Hope you have a great weekend!
I just heard about it. Glad you are safe. It is literally shaking to feel the tremors. Amen to the thought of residents recovering from the effects of it. You too have a good weekend, Neek. *hugs
Hurricane Barry was headed for New Orleans, Neek. And now I believe it has spared New Orleans and visited Louisiana instead. It is bright and sunny here. Hope you have been having a relaxed weekend. xx
What a delightful introductory paragraph. It got me hooked into the story. The mills are stunning and the scenery around them so beautiful. Recently, I’ve been reading about Victorian children, their education, diseases and aspirations and your words and images made me curious to continue my research to the other side of the pond. Hope summer continues going well on your side.
Hey V, thank you. 🙂 I think these old towns full of Victoriana would be up your alley, and what with the various styles of architecture to browse through, you would be a busy bee.
Wish you a wonderful London summer too love! xx
I love your visits to these small towns. Your photographs are really interesting; you have such a great eye for composition. And I love reading your introduction as well. I’ll come along to these villages any time. I need to get out and take some little wanders to small towns around me. I take them all for granted as I’ve lived here for so long! Thanks for the inspiration. 🙂
Aw thanks Cathy! Gladdens my heart to read this. We are trying to make the most of these weekends. Since we love antique-ing, it feels grand to stumble across these towns and go a little berserk trying not to pick up every neat thing we come across. I know that it is easy to take things for granted. We are all guilty of it.
You have a fun weekend. xx
Oh my gosh, tell me all about it. I’m always itching to buy something in the cute shops in small towns. And I usually can’t stop myself. Enjoy your weekend too! 🙂
Lotta history here! though modern compared to spot in England. (sorry!) Dippy Dotty Girl, I love your graceful and thoughtful text articles. How long does it take you to write them? It seems to flow so naturally, but I’ll bet a lot of writing and rearrangement may be involved to achieve the natural effect. Love it! 🙂
Hehe, I hear you Theresa. You said it. 🙂
Thank you for the words. It did take me time because I am flitting in between writing and attending to house guests for a month and you know writing requires solitary sessions. It is not easy to disengage from everything and just keep writing. I see why people attend retreats! Love and hugs. xx
House guests! That’s a commitment. And in July – I’m imagining it’s warm temperatures and muggy there in NJ. 🙂 Yes, having time to oneself and the quiet space to write is a gift. Have a wonderful weekend! xx
It is. The in-laws. 🙂 It is hot but not yet too humid, the latter in fits and starts. The unbearable version of it shall arrive in a month. I think one needs a coffee shop a step away, a quiet room and a whirring fan for company, to write peacefully. 😉 Hope you are having a wonderful weekend too, lovely. xx
I’m glad you warned us about the “bearable Thai food”, but I’m sure I’d be happy with something substantial from that adorable scoop shop instead 😉 What a fun find!
I have hardly come across average Thai in this country yet, you know. So I was a bit bummed. The law of averages had to level it out for me. 😛 The scoop shop is reserved for our next trip back to Clinton, because it is too pretty not to see again. 🙂 xx
What a charming town, but I must admit I got stuck at the cat photos—big fan of felines, particularly Main Coons. The old photos are great; everyone looks so “put together”, even the workers.
Danke schoen, Caroline. The Maine Coons are such feline supermodels! I am not a big fan of cats (more of a dog person), but it was easy to fall in love with these beauties that kept curling themselves around my legs. I get what you mean by ‘put together’ wrt to the people from those old photos. I am fascinated by them. They speak volumes if you look at them long enough.
Hope you have a productive week. xx
Still exploring America? 🙂
Been out of the blogosphere for almost 2 months. 6 weeks in Paris were a hard sacrifice. 😉
Sorry to report I din’t find Tagore in the boxes that were at my brother’s.
😦
(But we didn’t have time to open all the boxes – brought Tolstoï’s War and peace back though – so I have hope for next year.)
Hope all is well with you.
Cheers
Nah exploring Europe and you know how it sinks its claws in. Now returning home should be a chore. I can well believe that Paris occupied all your time and blogging must have been right behind everything else. Just as it should.
No worries about not spotting Tagore. Books come and go. War and Peace is one of the best. Enjoy reading it again.
Yes, Europe “doth” sink its claws in. 🙂 (And I never travel and blog. No time. The blogging comes back afterwards.
War & peace I’m glad I’ve brought back along with one and half suitcase of books. I think I only to go Paris to buy books. 😉
But before Tolstoï, I’ve just read King Lear. I thought I’d already read it, but no. What a book. And what misery did one live – or die – in in those times.
All Shakespeare is worth a visit or re-visit. Macbeth is probably my favourite. (Tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow…) 😉
I also go back to Enid Blyton when I want something fresh to briefly alleviate the world’s atrocities. Just moved Kamala Markandaya to the re-read shelf. 😉
Be good ma’amji.
The Red Mill is such a beautifully preserved place. I loved The Bunker Hill school and the photo of the children who had attended long ago – how solemn they look! What a great visit to such a historic place. Thanks for sharing it and also your encounter with a skunk 😉 Neek
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Hehehe, thank you for noting the skunk-y details of this post, Neek. The Red Mill was so engaging. I loved it! Hope you all are doing well. xx
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Yes, we are despite having another aftershock early this morning from the Ridgecrest quake. We are hoping things get better for the residents in that area. Hope you have a great weekend!
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I just heard about it. Glad you are safe. It is literally shaking to feel the tremors. Amen to the thought of residents recovering from the effects of it. You too have a good weekend, Neek. *hugs
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We hope you are all doing well despite Hurricane Barry! Stay safe – hugs back – Neek
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Hurricane Barry was headed for New Orleans, Neek. And now I believe it has spared New Orleans and visited Louisiana instead. It is bright and sunny here. Hope you have been having a relaxed weekend. xx
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Thank goodness!
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Absolutely fascinating and interesting .
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Thank you amma! 🙂
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What a delightful introductory paragraph. It got me hooked into the story. The mills are stunning and the scenery around them so beautiful. Recently, I’ve been reading about Victorian children, their education, diseases and aspirations and your words and images made me curious to continue my research to the other side of the pond. Hope summer continues going well on your side.
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Hey V, thank you. 🙂 I think these old towns full of Victoriana would be up your alley, and what with the various styles of architecture to browse through, you would be a busy bee.
Wish you a wonderful London summer too love! xx
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I love your visits to these small towns. Your photographs are really interesting; you have such a great eye for composition. And I love reading your introduction as well. I’ll come along to these villages any time. I need to get out and take some little wanders to small towns around me. I take them all for granted as I’ve lived here for so long! Thanks for the inspiration. 🙂
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Aw thanks Cathy! Gladdens my heart to read this. We are trying to make the most of these weekends. Since we love antique-ing, it feels grand to stumble across these towns and go a little berserk trying not to pick up every neat thing we come across. I know that it is easy to take things for granted. We are all guilty of it.
You have a fun weekend. xx
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Oh my gosh, tell me all about it. I’m always itching to buy something in the cute shops in small towns. And I usually can’t stop myself. Enjoy your weekend too! 🙂
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Small pleasures of life…so why not? 🙂
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Cute historic town and those old mills are just stunning. Old world charm for sure.
Have a great weekend A. Xx
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They are aren’t they? If I could, I would live in a barn or a mill. 🙂 You have a great weekend too, Lorelle. xxx
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It would be great to renovate one of those for sure.
Thanks lovely ❤️
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Right? Just imagine the possibilities! 😉
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Lotta history here! though modern compared to spot in England. (sorry!) Dippy Dotty Girl, I love your graceful and thoughtful text articles. How long does it take you to write them? It seems to flow so naturally, but I’ll bet a lot of writing and rearrangement may be involved to achieve the natural effect. Love it! 🙂
LikeLike
Hehe, I hear you Theresa. You said it. 🙂
Thank you for the words. It did take me time because I am flitting in between writing and attending to house guests for a month and you know writing requires solitary sessions. It is not easy to disengage from everything and just keep writing. I see why people attend retreats! Love and hugs. xx
LikeLike
House guests! That’s a commitment. And in July – I’m imagining it’s warm temperatures and muggy there in NJ. 🙂 Yes, having time to oneself and the quiet space to write is a gift. Have a wonderful weekend! xx
LikeLike
It is. The in-laws. 🙂 It is hot but not yet too humid, the latter in fits and starts. The unbearable version of it shall arrive in a month. I think one needs a coffee shop a step away, a quiet room and a whirring fan for company, to write peacefully. 😉 Hope you are having a wonderful weekend too, lovely. xx
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🙂 Sending cool and quiet thoughts!
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Gorgeous photos, such a fascinating place!
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Thank you Alex! 🙂
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I love the chaos with a cat photos and that wonderful upside down kayaking. 🙂 🙂 Beautifully written and presented. I want to dabble my toes by a mill.
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Thank you Jo. 🙂 Hahaha, I like your observations. To dabble your toes by a mill is a fine, fine idea. As good as scones and tea after a long hike. xx
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I’m glad you warned us about the “bearable Thai food”, but I’m sure I’d be happy with something substantial from that adorable scoop shop instead 😉 What a fun find!
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I have hardly come across average Thai in this country yet, you know. So I was a bit bummed. The law of averages had to level it out for me. 😛 The scoop shop is reserved for our next trip back to Clinton, because it is too pretty not to see again. 🙂 xx
LikeLike
What a charming town, but I must admit I got stuck at the cat photos—big fan of felines, particularly Main Coons. The old photos are great; everyone looks so “put together”, even the workers.
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Danke schoen, Caroline. The Maine Coons are such feline supermodels! I am not a big fan of cats (more of a dog person), but it was easy to fall in love with these beauties that kept curling themselves around my legs. I get what you mean by ‘put together’ wrt to the people from those old photos. I am fascinated by them. They speak volumes if you look at them long enough.
Hope you have a productive week. xx
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Your posts and photos allow me imagine I’m there with you on these trips – thank you!
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Thank you for indulging me, Sheree. Have a lovely weekend ahead. I cannot wait for it. xx
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A fascinating insight into times gone by.
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Grazie mille, in the spirit of my current location. 🙂
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Buon viaggio!
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Still exploring America? 🙂
Been out of the blogosphere for almost 2 months. 6 weeks in Paris were a hard sacrifice. 😉
Sorry to report I din’t find Tagore in the boxes that were at my brother’s.
😦
(But we didn’t have time to open all the boxes – brought Tolstoï’s War and peace back though – so I have hope for next year.)
Hope all is well with you.
Cheers
LikeLike
Nah exploring Europe and you know how it sinks its claws in. Now returning home should be a chore. I can well believe that Paris occupied all your time and blogging must have been right behind everything else. Just as it should.
No worries about not spotting Tagore. Books come and go. War and Peace is one of the best. Enjoy reading it again.
LikeLike
Yes, Europe “doth” sink its claws in. 🙂 (And I never travel and blog. No time. The blogging comes back afterwards.
War & peace I’m glad I’ve brought back along with one and half suitcase of books. I think I only to go Paris to buy books. 😉
But before Tolstoï, I’ve just read King Lear. I thought I’d already read it, but no. What a book. And what misery did one live – or die – in in those times.
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It is but one of the greatest. I have forgotten King Lear almost. Time to revisit it perhaps. 🙂
Blogging can wait. While travelling, there is no time for anything else, but living in the moment. I hear you.
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All Shakespeare is worth a visit or re-visit. Macbeth is probably my favourite. (Tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow…) 😉
I also go back to Enid Blyton when I want something fresh to briefly alleviate the world’s atrocities. Just moved Kamala Markandaya to the re-read shelf. 😉
Be good ma’amji.
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Kamala Markandaya…gotta look her up. Had not heard of her.
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She was born in Mysore in ’24. Married an Englishman after the war and went to live in the UK. All her books are about India. Pieces of history now. 🙂
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Thank you for the reco then. I shall be looking her up asap. 🙂
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Like many novels of the 50’s it may have aged a bit. I’ll re-read one to see. 🙂
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(And I don’t give up on Tagore. Must be in another box) Better luck next year.
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I love the ice cream parlors
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Ditto, lovely!
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